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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.